![]() Soon after I got sponsored by Rip Curl and Gotcha, making me a full-fledged “Cheyne clone.” These were days of Cheyne Horan and Lazor Zap single fins. I got second place in my first contest, and subsequently got offered to ride for McCoy surfboards. There was the rest of the Town and Country team: Dane Kealoha, Vince Klyn, Louie Ferreira, Calvin Maeda, and the super-friendly Randall Kim, who would sell me his 5’9” twin fin (sprayed orange and mustard yellow and covered in CHP stickers) and become my pen pal for several years.ĥ. The vibrant greens and blues of the reef, the swishing turquoise, the wash of spray shooting off the rails, the sea breeze blowing back my hair and making me feel ten feet tall… ![]() But once I get the hang of it I’m hooked. At first it’s like trying to drive a semi-trailer truck through rush hour traffic. I rent a banana yellow Morey Doyle from a stout beach boy with beer breath. We stay at the Reef Towers, with white-water views of the very spot where Duke rode his legendary mile-long wave, where Rabbit and Kimo and Scooter Boy pushed bikini-clad haole girls from California into their first waves, where Jack London would write beautifully about surfing and thus kick off a movement. It’s a family vacation of “The Brady Bunch” sort. ![]() The boogie kept my brothers and me content for a couple years, until that fateful trip to Hawaii.Ģ. The early boogie boards were very D.I.Y., a shaped block of foam and two skins that you glued on yourself. But I did order a Morey Boogie from Surfing magazine’s Kanoa Surf mail order catalogue, along with a pair of powder blue Op cord shorts. ![]()
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